The rural Japan taster – DAY 1
A little holiday within holiday, as it felt to us once we arrived to this rural part of the country, ready to hit the northern most island roads over the next few days.
After 12 hours long train journey, quick Thai dinner and reasonably sufficient sleep in one of Sapporo’s hotels right next to the train station, we hopped on the train again to Chitose where the van hire company was based.
The business owner, very friendly and helpful chap, picked us up at the train station and after a short drive, quick paperwork and thorough van facilities introduction, we were off to the wild.
First stop 7-eleven to stock up on road snacks and picnic style dinner and off we go, heading around Sapporo up north towards Cape Kamui with a few stops planned on the way.
— Expressway and Tolls
As we’re approaching the highway we’re presented with a toll gate, many Japanese signs but no clear explanation to which gate to take…never mind, they all seem to have a machine handing out tickets, we’re good!
Getting off the highway however proved to be a little more tricky as we took the wrong gate marked ECT (Electronically Collected Toll – later we learnt) and after unsuccessful chat with Japanese machine a real person turned up to our rescue and dealt with the toll fees – Hokkaido expressway is definitely not the cheapest 💸💸💸
When our trip was over we had a quick google to discover that we could have got ourselves the ECT card and save quite a bit of money, something to keep in mind for the next time.
— Nikka Whisky Distillery
Finally we arrived to our first real stop – Nikka Whisky Distillery. A quick stroll around the museum and a little sneaky peak to the adjacent shop (and a purchase of not Whisky but chocolate – there is nothing like too many snacks and treats) we got on our way again.
— Cape Ogun
This was meant to be our second stop but the skies don’t look very promising today. Not the best weather for a hike up to the cape, heavy rain keeps changing to piercing sun within minutes and sky is looking way too moody so when we arrived to Cape Ogun and realised the journey doesn’t stop with us getting off the car but involves another 30 minutes hike before we can enjoy the view from the cliff, we actually gave it a pass in order to stay dry, and carried on to nearby onsen for our evening wash.
— Misaku no Yu Onsen
Driving through little villages was ghostly dead, and so was the onsen, September seems to be out of season. Misaku no Yu Onsen, a public spa with beautiful outside bath overlooking the Sea of Japan. The entry fee was about 600 yen each and we’re let through the reception area into separate changing rooms leading to the actual baths. No mixed bathing, yet again. We were lucky with weather after all and enjoyed the sun setting over the sea while soaking ourselves in the outside hot salt bath. Just beautiful.
— Nozuka Camping Ground
After having a soak and a scrub, we’re ready to settle for the night, we found a camping ground nearby. If you pop camping into Google maps, it usually spits out a few options, some are free, some are not. We haven’t paid for over night parking once during our trip. Nozuka Camping Ground was the choice for tonight, a few minutes drive and right on the seafront. May sound like a glamorous idea but it was already dark and also wet, wind was battering our car really badly but at this point this is the only option.
We parked close to sad looking bathrooms that only empowered the slightly creepy vibe of this place. It was just us and even though it was only shortly after 7pm, it felt like midnight. We got ready for bed and snuggled in the back of the car that was swaying from side to side as the wind was blowing against it. All the horror films I have ever seen were playing in my mind. Morning couldn’t come fast enough.
Continue reading day 2 of our camper van road trip around Hokkaido.
